Tobago is a beautiful and fertile island, and it’s no
coincidence that almost every western European colonial power has fought to have it over the years. It’s
rich in history, and you can see that just by noting the names of the villages you drive through -
Plymouth, Argyle, Les Coteaux, Glamorgan, Goodwood and
Parlatuvier, to mention a few. If you do wake up to a rainy day, there’s plenty to do - here are just a few examples.
Scenery and real life Caribbean
Hire a jeep and go to Speyside at the north end of the island. Although Tobago is only 27 miles long, it'll take you a day to travel up and down the island. The roads in Tobago are quite good and improving all the time, but they are few and far between, and tend to wind around the coastline - giving you spectacular scenic views. There's plenty of things to see and do on the way - you may need to take 2 separate days to see most of the sights - but head for Speyside and see the contrast with the south of the island.
The view from the ‘Speyside Lookout’ is lovely, and you may very well be standing there alone with your camera. Speyside is predominantly known on Tobago for it's diving opportunities. The diving is fantastic, and it’s here that you’re likely to see the island’s famous manta rays.
There aren't many places to stop and get a drink on the way - so take something with you. You are very much in real Tobago as you drive through the villages. Tourists and their jeeps are 'an event' as they pass by - you'll only ever see friendly faces, but the real Tobago doesn't have a diner or bar at every corner - and to be honest - that's nice.
From Speyside you can see Goat Island and Little Tobago, a 450 acre bird sanctuary. Trips to these islands can be arranged locally.
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Goat
Island |
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Wild and friendly nightlife in the open
‘Sunday School’ in Tobago doesn’t refer to Bible readings and gospel singing, but the island’s hottest weekend event - an open air dance and music fest next to Buccoo beach . The evening starts off around 9pm with a fabulous show by the Buccooneers - one of Tobago's finest
steelpan bands - and then the reggae and calypso starts. Beer and rum is cheap. There's
barbecue and street food stalls, and the few shops there stay open late.
It's a great place where tourists - of all ages - meet the locals and just
party. There's no entrance fee - it's mostly in the open. And there's a fleet of the 'unofficial' taxis to take you back to your hotel or apartment in the early hours of the morning. Thoroughly recommended.
Sport
Fishing
Tobago’s sparkling
waters are teeming with life, and if you fancy a day of
serious fishing, then you’d be advised to take a
camera along too. ‘Hard Play’ Fishing
Charters operate a sports fishing service for light
tackle and flyfishing, both offshore and coastal. Capt.
'Frothy' De Silva and his crew have proudly released
over 200 Marlin up to 700 lbs, over 200 Sailfish and
have caught Swordfish,
Long Bill Spearfish and Mako Shark in the waters off Tobago. For more information about 'Hard Play' visit their very
good website www.hardplay.net |
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Hard
Play bring in a big one
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Cabaret
The 'Golden Star' near Bon Accord and Pigeon Point is an unlikely looking venue but can provide a good night out when it does it's 'specials' - particularly 'Scouting For Talent'. There’s a small entrance fee and the drinks are cheap. The stage show lasts all evening and the range and quality of performers would do BBC1's 'Star for a Night' proud. A really good night out.
Carnival
Carnival in Trinidad is akin to our Christmas. The island goes wild with song, dance and costume.
Carnival in Tobago is enjoyed with the same vigour, but on a more 'quaint' scale.
Home made costumes are painstakingly put together over many weeks in people's back yards,
special cakes and breads are made for the festivities, and a
copious amount of rum is consumed to the increasingly rare sounds of calypso.
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Tobago
Carnival |
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Carnival Dates
2006 27th & 28th February
2007 19th & 20th February
2008 4th & 5th February
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Carnival builds up - like Christmas festivities - before the big parades on the Monday and Tuesday before Lent. So for about 2 weeks in February and March each
year flights and hotels tend to be busy and booked well
ahead, and the beaches become home to 'detached des-res' size sound
speakers, pumping out this year's carnival hit - usually 'Jump, Jump, Jump Up and Down' - or variations on the theme of.
So, Carnival in Tobago transforms the island into a throbbing, noisy party for a few days, with
very busy beaches. If you don't want to take part and do want your peace and quiet, it may not be the best time to visit the island.
Waterfalls - photos and swim
Tobago has a number of beautiful waterfalls - in particular the
Argyle Waterfall. It’s a tiered climb with cool pools of water as you go, and lovely light for photos. Do accept the offer of a government registered guide when you get there. They will have an ID with them. The Falls are a slippery pathway to reach and a guide will help you reach them safely and they are well worth the small climb. A camera and a swimming costume are a must.
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Argyle
Falls |
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Kimme's
Sculptures |
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Art
German sculptor Luise Kimme carves strange but striking
Caribbean figures out of solid tree trunks. Her home near the
Mount Irvine golf course is also a museum of her work . It’s
open at restricted times and you should check locally before
visiting.
For more information about Luise and her work visit her website.
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Arnos Vale Sugar Estate
Well worth a visit. Museum, restaurant (expensive), wildlife, waterwheel (from Glasgow it says!). Very pretty, worth a visit with the family. About £1 admission fee. Drinks are quite expensive. Take some
anti-mozzie stuff . The wildlife here is fabulous. Just sit amongst the trees and watch.
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Arnos
Vale Sugar Estate |
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Scarborough, Tobago’s
capital
Worth visiting to see Fort King George at the top of the hill overlooking the
harbour. Just head for the hill and go right to the top - past the hospital.
Fabulous view and breeze. Good museum. Nowhere to eat or drink so take your own.
The Fort and Museum are a must to visit.
Scarborough is worth a visit in itself but only if you've done everything else. There's not much to see or do there and it's not particularly pretty. Lots of fastfood eateries, a good outdoor market is worth a visit, but that's about it.
Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve
This 12 acre estate located on the Arnos Vale road boasts of birds, butterflies, iguanas and mango/citrus orchards. There is a small admission and tour charge. Open from Mon-Fri 7am till 5pm.
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Tobago's
lush & hilly terrain |
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The
Rainforest
This is said to be one of the oldest rainforests in the world. Go with a proper guide and read up on the rain forest first. You’ll need plenty of water, lots of
anti-mozzie stuff and some sturdy shoes. It’s not a place for flip flops. |
Glass bottom boat trip
It's only about £5 per head and well worth it. You get to see a little of the coral reef, but best of all you get to swim in the strangely named Nylon Pool - a shallow area hundreds of yards out to sea where the water suddenly becomes only waist deep. It's a coral sand bank and the water is beautifully warm and calm, and it's lovely to swim in. You get on the boats at
Store Bay at the Crown Point end of the island. Look out for 'Big Mitch' and 'Small Cops' on the boats - true Tobagonian characters.
Botanical Gardens
Near to Fort King George in Scarborough, on 17 acres of well-groomed gardens, trees and shrubs and overlooking the Scarborough.
Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary
This bird sanctuary was once a cocoa estate. After the 1963 Hurricane, the owner took to feeding the wild birds whose forest habitat was badly damaged. When she died, the estate was passed onto her remaining family on the condition that it would remain a wildlife sanctuary. The house has been converted to a nature
centre. The
Mot Mots have been conditioned over the years and usually come out around 4pm for their old feeding time. Their fear of humans has diminished and hand feeding is possible. There are nature hiking trails on the grounds.
Plymouth
A grave in this small town has intrigued people for centuries. Tourists come to read the inscription on the tomb of Mrs.Betty Stiven and her child.
‘ She was the beloved wife of Alex B Stiven. To the end of his days will deplore her death, which happened upon the 25th November 1783 in the 23rd year of her age. What was remarkable of her, she was a mother without knowing it, and a wife without letting her husband know it except by her kind indulgence to him.'
Charlotteville
A really lovely fishing village at the far end of the island. There are good swimming beaches here, including the historical Pirates’ Bay, which can only be reached by boat.
Trinidad
You can fly to Trinidad for the day for about £20
return. There’s regular, daily flights between Tobago (Crown Point Airport) and Trinidad
(Piarco airport). Return Fare - TT$200 (about £20). You can book in advance through your hotel or at a travel agents at the airport. The flight takes only 15
mins, but it’s a bit of a taxi ride from the airport at the other end to any of the sights - Port of Spain, Caroni Swamp or Maracas Bay. You can do it - go early and come back late, and prepared to be hot and sweaty.
A daily ferry operates between Tobago and Trinidad (except Saturdays), taking about five hours and departing Tobago at 11 pm. The return trip leaves Port of Spain at 2 pm (Sunday 11 am). Fares TT$25 (about
£2.50 one-way, TT$50-60 (about £5-6) round-trip, cars from TT$115 (about
£11) according to weight. Call the Port Authority (001 868 623-2901) to confirm times and costs.
There's a lot to see in Trinidad. It's worth doing your homework before you go.
Trinidad is a complete contrast from Tobago. It's a bustling industrial
island, and you should be crime conscious. There are pretty parts of Trinidad - mainly in the north in the hills, away from the airport and the city.
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